Early in the morning lately, before the sun rises, around 6:30 a.m., you can feel fall in the air in New York City. It’s that betwixt and between period, when the light is lowering but you can still get tomatoes and peaches at the market, still get away with short sleeves.
A colleague described these in-between days as times when we partake of “the dregs of summer rituals,” the last B.L.T.s and beach days, while, in the same moment, starting to observe the rites of fall.
In anticipation of one of those rites, Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year, which begins this year on Sept. 25, I made challah for the first time recently. I skipped the sourdough frenzy of 2020, so I’m coming around late to the comforts and rewards of bread making.
I’d assumed making challah would be difficult — it’s so rich and impressively ornate — but was thrilled to learn that it’s a good beginner bread that requires neither stand mixer nor starter babysitting. “If you’re bread-curious but not sure where to begin, start here,” writes Claire Saffitz in “The Only Challah Recipe You’ll Ever Need.”
My friend Aliza, who makes challah every Friday for Shabbat, advised me to knead the dough “until it’s as soft as a baby’s tushy” and to make sure I let it rise enough. “Then it’s really about sharing it with people you love or who you are welcoming into your home,” she said. “And that just feels so good that it tastes better.”
I impressed myself with two shiny, braided loaves that tasted as good as they looked. I sent photos to friends, who asked when I’d be inviting them over to break bread. I’m considering a fall bread-making ritual, a practice that will give me a good excuse to gather people together, as a constant during the changing season. I’ll make tomato sandwiches with it for now, then accompaniment for soup and beans as it gets colder.
THE WEEK IN CULTURE
Ukrainian investigators found burial sites around the city of Izium, which was recently freed from Russian occupation.
Prime Minister Narendra Modi of India admonished President Vladimir Putin of Russia over the war.
Stocks fell yesterday, capping one of Wall Street’s worst weeks of the year as executives and financial managers warned of worsening economic conditions.
Migrants shipped to Martha’s Vineyard by Gov. Ron DeSantis of Florida said they had been misled about where they were being taken.
Offices in the New York City area jumped to nearly half full this week in the biggest post-Labor Day increase of any major metropolitan region.
Donald Trump keeps holding rallies in battleground states even when Republican candidates haven’t invited him.
🎬 “The Woman King” (Out now): Viola Davis stars in this historical action epic as the general who leads a group of female warriors defending their homeland in 19th-century West Africa. Davis is one of her generation’s titanic actors (four Oscar nominations and one win) and the director Gina Prince-Bythewood has impressive range — from the youthful romance “Love & Basketball” to the superhero film “The Old Guard.” In her review, Manohla Dargis writes that the film is “filled with palace intrigues, sumptuous ceremonies and stirring battles.” This is one for the big screen.
📚 “Life’s Work: A Memoir” (Out now): I curse way more than I should. There are many reasons for this. One is the work of David Milch, the TV writer-showrunner-producer whose facility with profanity reached its apotheosis in the HBO western “Deadwood.” The Times book critic Dwight Garner calls his new work “one of the best books about television I’ve read. It’s funny, discursive, literate, druggy, self-absorbed, fidgety, replete with intense perceptions.” (Read our profile of Milch, which looks at what his life has been like since publicly disclosing that he has Alzheimer’s.)
Herby Pork Larb With Chile
After a steamy summer of eating mostly salads for dinner, I feel mentally ready for heartier, more satisfying fare. But with temperatures forecast to reach the 80s in New York this weekend, I don’t want to crank the oven for long-braised meats or slowly simmered stews. A Thai pork larb is the perfect solution, and it comes together in a flash. The caramelized ground pork and toasted rice flour give it richness and depth; plenty of herbs, shallots and tangy lime juice keep it light and brightly flavored. Is pork not your thing? You can use ground turkey, chicken or even tofu instead. It’s the combination of fresh chiles, cilantro and fish sauce that makes the dish sing.
A selection of New York Times recipes is available to all readers. Please consider a Cooking subscription for full access.
More cooking space: Back kitchens reinvent the pantry as a hardworking prep room.
Neighbor vs. neighbor: A bluff in Nantucket is at the center of a fight — accept the effects of climate change or push back?
Las Vegas Aces vs. Connecticut Sun, W.N.B.A. Finals: These two teams have been among the best in the league for years, but neither has won a title. That’s about to change. The Aces have a fluid, high-scoring offense led by A’ja Wilson, the league’s M.V.P. Connecticut excels at defense, anchored by last season’s M.V.P., Jonquel Jones. Las Vegas leads the best-of-five series, 2-1. 4 p.m. Eastern on Sunday, ESPN.
The pangrams from yesterday’s Spelling Bee were ejection and injection. Here is today’s puzzle.
Take the news quiz to see how well you followed this week’s headlines.
Here’s today’s Wordle. After, use our bot to get better.
Before You Go …
“Succession” won big at the Emmys this week. Here’s a fascinating profile of the show’s creator, Jesse Armstrong.
The Sun Clock gives you the times for sunrise, sunset, golden hour (and more) for your location.
Thanks for spending part of your weekend with The Times. — Melissa
Correction: A picture caption in yesterday’s newsletter referred incompletely to Representatives Abigail Spanberger and Chip Roy. They are sponsors of a House bill to restrict congressional stock trades; they are not among the lawmakers who reported trades in companies influenced by the committees they sit on.
Lauren Hard, Claire Moses, Ian Prasad Philbrick, Tom Wright-Piersanti and Ashley Wu contributed to The Morning. You can reach the team at email@example.com.
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